I have been getting ready to make a new corset for Civil War reenacting for the past few months and at last have decided I just need to make it! This is my sixth reenacting corset that I've made for myself (I have made a few others for other folks) but for some reason I always have difficulties rememering how to construct it. For that reason I decided to do a step by step documentary on how to make one of these things.
Corsets are the foundation that almost every woman needs for a proper 1860's impression. There are a very few cases where not wearing a corset may be permissible but for the vast majority of the time a corset or stay would have been worn. A corset is meant to firm and shape the torso into a predictable shape so that highly fitted dresses can be worn over the top. A corset also takes the weight of your voluminous petticoats and skirts and evenly distrubutes that. A corset also lifts and supports the bosom so one does not flop unattractively around. :)
A corset is really not a hard garment to make. In fact, I think they are very simple to construct and only require a good fitting pattern and precise cutting and sewing. In the past I have used Period Impressions Light French Corset pattern, a drafted pattern of my own and the Laughing Moon Victorian Corset pattern. I currently use the LM pattern because it is very easy to fit, following the fitting instructions given in the pattern and makes a good shape. (There are two styles given in the LM pattern; one for a gusseted corset and the other for a gored or shaped seam corset. Both give a similar shape if fitted properly and I personally prefer the shaped seam corset for ease in fitting).
The first step in constructing a corset is to make a mock up of the pattern you are using out of old jeans or a similar weight material. Fit the corset. Once you have fitted it, trace out the fitted pattern onto fresh paper for future use. Here is my pattern, fitted from the LM Dore pattern, pinned onto the fabric I'm using for my corset:
The first step in constructing a corset is to make a mock up of the pattern you are using out of old jeans or a similar weight material. Fit the corset. Once you have fitted it, trace out the fitted pattern onto fresh paper for future use. Here is my pattern, fitted from the LM Dore pattern, pinned onto the fabric I'm using for my corset:
I am using a heavy weight cotton twill fabric in a slate blue color. I have 5 pattern pieces per side of the corset so need to cut 4 of each pattern piece from the fabric. This gives me a double layer corset and the bones will be inserted into channels sewn between the outer and inner layer. You can also make single layer corsets and sew in the boning channels on the inside for a lighter and cooler corset (I have made corsets both ways) but for ease of construction and sturdiness I like the double layer. Here are all the pieces cut out and stacked for one side; repeat this procedure of cutting and stacking for the opposite side of the corset.
Inserting the Busk:I like to get the busk out of the way next. This busk is recycled from my corset two corsets ago that I used when I was pregnant. It had a belly curve to it so I put it under our mattress and had David sleep on it for about a month or so to get it flat again. :) You will need your 4 center front pieces to insert the busk.
Lay your center front pieces right sides together to make two center front sections, each a mirror image of the other. On one side, align the looped edge of the busk with the straight raw edges. My busk is a little shorter than my center front corset length but that is all right. Just position it so that it is a bit down from the top edge and a bit up from the bottom edge. This will give you room to sew on your corset binding without a breaking a machine needle on the steel! Once you have aligned the looped edge with the straight front edge and positioned it how you want it, mark each loop on the outer edges with a marking pencil. 
Sew your front corset pieces together, right sides together for both sides. On the corset pieces you marked for the looped part of the busk, do not sew in the short areas where the loops will be inserted. Start and stop your stitching at the marks you made. On the other side, simply sew both pieces together, all the way down. Your finished sewn pieces should look like this:
Press both seams open, turn pieces right sides out and again carefully press, the seam being on the exact edge. Carefully slide the looped edge of the busk between the corset pieces you marked for the looped edge. The loops should fit into the areas you left open in this seam. It should now look like this: 
For the other half of the front corset, align the looped piece with the other piece, matching top and bottom edges. The loops will overlap onto the other side, showing you where the pegs on the other half of the busk needs to be. Use a marking pencil and mark these spots.
Using a knitting needle or awl, carefully work the marked spots open, strectching the fabric and not tearing threads (if possible). 
Slide the busk back into position and carefully work each peg through the hole, stretching the hole to fit over the peg. Once you are done, your pieces should look like this: 
To keep your busk from shifting around, use a zipper foot and closely sew around the busk, going slowly since you don't want to hit your needle on the steel by mistake!
Sewing the Rest of the Corset Shell: The technique I use to sew the rest of the corset shell is one that I really love to use! It sews all four layers together using just one seam and covers all seam allowances at the same time, making the inside of the corset look the same as the outside! No seperate making up of the lining and outer layer and deplorable "stitching in the ditch" to attach the layers together!
To do this, working with just one half of the corset, take the side front pieces of your corset. Right sides together, place the side front corset piece against your center front piece. Make sure all edges match and are even. Now take the other side front piece (what will be the inside layer) and lay that, right sides together, with the center front piece. You will have a "sandwich" of side front piece, center front pieces, side front piece.
To do this, working with just one half of the corset, take the side front pieces of your corset. Right sides together, place the side front corset piece against your center front piece. Make sure all edges match and are even. Now take the other side front piece (what will be the inside layer) and lay that, right sides together, with the center front piece. You will have a "sandwich" of side front piece, center front pieces, side front piece.
Sew all these pieces together. Trim seam allowances, clip curves and turn the side front pieces to the outside. 
You have a very neatly enclosed seam and are ready to sew on the side piece! Repeat this procedure for the remaining pieces and then repeat all over again for the other half of the corset. Here is what the corset looks with all pieces sewn together and with the busk hooked closed in the front: 
When you come to the back edges you will have raw edges left to finish. Turn each seam allowance to the inside on your center back pieces, align the folded edges and topstitch close the fold to finish off the back opening.
Mark your eyelet holes now. Make sure you mark them far enough in from the center back edge to accomodate a bone directly against the edge. (I put my eyelets about 1" - 1.5" in from the center back edge). 
Work your eyelets by hand or insert grommets. I have bad problems with grommets falling out so I always make handmade eyelets instead. It is a bit more time consuming to do but they wear like iron! To do so, simply poke the eyelet open with a knitting needle or awl, work it open with a pencil, trying to stretch (not tear) the fabric, and go around the hole with a closely spaced whip stitch. Here is the corset back with the eyelets worked:
Sewing the Boning Channels:Once your eyelets are in it is time to sew the boning channels! Boning placement is really a very personal thing and you need to do what is best for your figure but generally I always place a bone along the outside edge of the corset back, and one again on the other side of the eyelets. If you are small figured then one bone along each seam line may work for you. I usually put a bone along each seam and then an extra down the middle of any wider pieces so that the finished bones are no farther apart than 2.5" or so.
Once the boning channels are sewn (make them as wide as your bone, plus a bit extra), it is time to insert the boning. You can use steel boning and I have also sucessfully used cable ties as well. I haven't reached the point of inserting boning yet with this corset so I am still not sure if I will use cable ties or spring steels. Spring steels are a post-war invention and they really don't provide much support. Flat steels are better but I do not have enough of the right length on hand to use for this corset. I may just use cable ties since I can cut them to length and if, in the future, I want to upgrade to steels I can unpick my binding and put new bones in at that time.
Next post - finishing the corset!
Love,
Sarah
5-7-2010
Well, since my last post I have finished my corset! Yay! I didn't think I would get it done so soon but a little work each evening goes a long way towards getting something done.
I decided to use cable ties for my boning since that is what I had on hand. To pick up where I left off. . .
Inserting the Boning:
Stitch your boning channels. For this corset, I used one bone along each seam and a bone at each ceneter back edge and another on the other side of the eyelets. To sew channels next to a seam, I marked the placement of the bones on the side of the seam that did NOT have the seam allowance in it. Here is a photo of one half of the corset with the boning channels sewn:
Next, you need to cut your boning to the correct length. This is usually 1" shorter than the actual channel, which gives you a 1/2" seam allowance at the top and bottom to put on the binding. You *can* sew through plastic boning but most definitely *not* through steel. If you are using steel bones, they should already be the correct length since you measured each channel and ordered the right lengths, right? :) If you are using cable ties, make sure to round each edge off with a filing board to smooth the sharp corners away.
If you don't do this, the bones may poke you in uncomfortable places at inconvenient times. (Voice of Experience).
Next, you need to cut your boning to the correct length. This is usually 1" shorter than the actual channel, which gives you a 1/2" seam allowance at the top and bottom to put on the binding. You *can* sew through plastic boning but most definitely *not* through steel. If you are using steel bones, they should already be the correct length since you measured each channel and ordered the right lengths, right? :) If you are using cable ties, make sure to round each edge off with a filing board to smooth the sharp corners away.If you don't do this, the bones may poke you in uncomfortable places at inconvenient times. (Voice of Experience). Slide the bones into the proper channels. 
Here is a photo of the corset with all the bones slid into position:
Here is a photo of the corset with all the bones slid into position:Binding the Corset:
Horaay! The corset is nearly complete! The last thing to do is to bind the corset. This encloses the top and bottom edge of the corset to finish off all the raw edges. You can use a fabric that matches your corset fabric, or a contrasting fabric. A lighterweight fabric is best since using the actual corset fabric may result in a bulky binding that will give you "corset lines" when worn beneath a fitted dress.
I am using white Kona cotton for my binding. Cut bias strips from scraps, enough to bind the top and bottom edge. You may have to piece your bias strips together to make them long enough but that is fine.
Right sides together, pin a bias strip to each raw edge of the corset. Sew to the corset, using a 1/2" seam. 
Turn under the seam allowance on the long, raw edge of the binding.Turn the binding to the inside of the corset and pin along the seam line. Slip stitch binding to inside seam line to finish corset. Here is a photo of my corset with the binding on:
I have not taken a photo yet, but I did sew some white lace to the top of the corset. This is not only decorative but also practical. It tells you which side is "up" on your corset since sometimes it is hard to know! If you haven't done so already, thread your lacing cords through the eyelets and try your new corset on! I like to use 2 laces; one coming from the top of the corset to the waist, and the other coming from the bottom of the corset to the waist. This gives me a lot more control over my waistline than using just one long lace from top to bottom.
I have not taken a photo yet, but I did sew some white lace to the top of the corset. This is not only decorative but also practical. It tells you which side is "up" on your corset since sometimes it is hard to know! If you haven't done so already, thread your lacing cords through the eyelets and try your new corset on! I like to use 2 laces; one coming from the top of the corset to the waist, and the other coming from the bottom of the corset to the waist. This gives me a lot more control over my waistline than using just one long lace from top to bottom. Pictures of the corset being worn to come. . .
The skirt is made of three 60" panels and is pleated to a brown cotton fabric waistband and whip stitched on. The skirt is basted to the bodice around most of the bodice, leaving the point in the front hanging free.
I have worn this dress quite often since I made it. I need to bone the center front point and the darts to make the fit more smooth but now that my figure has changed after having the baby, I think I may just remake the whole bodice anyway with leftover wool to get a better fit.
I have worn this dress to dances, a birthday party for Abraham Lincoln as well as to colder events where the wool keeps me cozy. I'm so glad I made it. It has definitely become a wardrobe staple! Now I understand why black dresses, either silk or wool, were so common in the period. They are nice basic canvases to dress up with different accessories and are appropriate for almost all occasions in almost all types of weather. I am not crazy about the color of the silk I used to trim it with but suprisingly I have received more compliments on the combination of this color and black than any of the other dresses I've ever made. So I'm starting to think it might be all right, too. :) 
This is another dress made with $1.50/yard fabric from Wal Mart. I really found some great deals at Wal Mart this past year, I tell you what. I love this print and despite only having five yards of it, was able to (barely) squeak out this dress with a few inch square pieces left over in case I ever need to patch or repair this dress.
The trim on this dress is of dark red braid and is applied with large basting stitches - just enough to hold it in place but easy to take off if I ever need to. The trim is inspired by similar trim on an original wool dress of the period. The original dress had narrower braid but this was the best I find in my local stores. It is a rayon braid but for now, until I can afford to purchase more accurate trim, it works. 
The dress is accessorized with a small gold brooch and a baste-in white collar made of one layer of muslin with lace trim whipped to the edges. 
The sleeves I had to get creative with. I had very little fabric to work with so chose a very slim fitting coat sleeve with a small puff at the top. The puff is sewn directly to the coat sleeve beneath it - the inner sleeve fits fairly closely to the arm. The puff had to be pieced but it is not noticeable and piecing is accurate for dresses of this period anyway.
It is a basic mid-19th century style cotton dress. The bodice is flat lined and the lining darted with the fashion fabric taken up in tucks (instead of darts) on the outside layer. The neck is cut in a slight V, which is a nice, yet accurate variation from the ubiquitous jewel neckline. The V neck shape is much more flattering on many figure types than the jewel neckline. The sleeves are one piece coat sleeves with a pleated sleeve cap and trimmed with black cotton. The armscyes and neckline are piped. The dress has a narrow piped waistband and a full pleated skirt, whipped directly to the edge of the waistband as per originals. The hem is finished with a hem facing from scrap cotton fabric. Closes down the front of the bodice with hook and eyes and a dogleg closure for the skirt. 
Since these pictures were taken, I have added another row of black trim to the sleeves and black decorative buttons down the front. A comfortable, easy-to-wear every day dress! In these pictures I am wearing a black bow at the neckline and a black belt that hooks closed in the back. This dress is also the one I wore when David and I had our tintype done in September of 2009.
And here is "The Power of Music" by William Sidney Mount, c. 1847. This also shows a two piece, seperate apron as well as a fly in the crutch seam - something David specifically requested since he wears his overalls *as* trousers, not over trousers as was done in period. .jpg)
A line drawing of a photograph from 1865 shows the back of overalls, with straps crossing over the shoulders from a rounded, raised back waist line. A sketch of c. 1860-1910 overalls from the Smithsonian also shows the crossed straps from a rounded, raised back waistline.
To make the pattern I took his trouser pattern and laid it on fresh paper. The back of his trouser pattern has a yoke, so I just put the two pieces together and traced around the yoke and trouser back as one piece. I added 2.5" in height to the front and back trouser pieces to take the place of the waistband that is on his regular trousers. I added 4" extra in height at the center back, tapering down to the side seam in a rounded shape. I extended the length of the fly 2.5" and made an apron piece for the front of the overalls, taken the dimensions for it from the bib on his modern overalls. (since then, David has requested that on the next pair I make, I make the top of the bib wider, more along the lines of the 1838 painting shown above).
I then sewed the side and crutch seams and sewed in the placket strips on each side of the overalls and pinned them to cover the seam allowance. Then I sewed the apron to the trouser front, right sides together, along just the outer layer of apron. Once that seam was sewn I pressed the seam upwards, and turned under the raw edge of the inside apron and pinned it to the seam allowance at the waist, enclosing all the raw edges.
David tried them on last night and I think they will work very well. All I have to do today is make the straps, finish slip stitching the inside apron to the seam allowance and do the hem. Then work buttonholes and put buttons on the sides and also at the top of the apron for the straps. But that should go fairly quickly, I think.
Once the slip stitching was finished and the back waistline was finished I made the straps; two rectangles with finished measurements of about 32" x 2". I positioned each strap 6.5" from the center back seam and topstitched them down by machine, going over each seam line twice for sturdiness, and sewing an X in the center.
And a closer up view of the back, showing the position of the straps:
And the front: 
And a view of the side placket, pocket and fly:
Love,
