Little House on the Prairie Sunbonnet

“She had a clean calico dress to wear and she had shoes. While she hurried to the house, she thought that Ma might let her wear her Sunday hair-ribbon and perhaps Mary’s freshly ironed sunbonnet.” . . .”quickly they changed to fresh dresses and shoes. But Ma saw no reason for hair-ribbons on a weekday and she said Laura must wear her own sunbonnet. ‘It would be fresher’, Ma said, ‘if you took care to keep it so.” Laura’s bonnet was limp from hanging down her back and the strings were limp too. But that was Laura’s own fault.”

~ Laura Ingalls Wilder The Long Winter

This pattern is one I came up with after watching the t.v. series Little House on the Prairie. I grew up watching the series and was delighted to discover it on our public television station this past year and was enchanted anew with the costumes of Ma, Laura, Mary and their friends and family. This bonnet is particularly modeled after the one the adult Laura wears in the later episodes. Mrs. Oleson also wears a very similar styled bonnet when in her less-flamboyant attire. :) This bonnet is sized adult. The fit is large and roomy, with plenty of space for coiled hair or braids. The brim shades the face from the sun and is edged with a delicate ruffle. The back neck is elasticized and has an ample curtain to shade your neck from the sun.

Note:* The instructions seem really confusing to me so I have taken photographs of the whole construction process so you hopefully have a better idea of how this goes together! Of course there are many different ways you could go about putting this together so feel free to deviate from my instructions as needed. :) It is really a very simple project.

Note: ** To alter for size: You can easily size this pattern up or down as needed. As is, it fits an average adult head quite roomily. The basic pattern shapes of brim and crown can be easily made to whatever size you need.

To alter the width, measure your head (or the head you are making this for) from the back top of head, straight out over the face. Make sure this measurement takes into account the width of any ruffle you will attach. Mark this length along the fold line of the brim pattern piece and add or subtract from the pattern lines as needed to get the width you desire.

To alter the length, measure over your head from ear to ear. Mark this measurement along the long straight edge of the brim pattern piece and add or subtract from the pattern lines as needed to get your desired length.

The crown will probably not need to be reduced much in width for smaller sizes unless you are making a very small infant bonnet. Smaller sizes will find the crown more "puffy" but not by too much. Since the crown is not fitted, the cut is very forgiving in terms of size. To increase the size of the crown, add LENGTH to it as needed, above the casing line. Unless you have a very large head or a very large hairdo it is unlikely you will need to add width to the crown. If you do, simply place the pattern piece a few inches from the fold when pinning to your fabric to get added width across the center. To decrease the size of the crown, measure from the back top of the head, "poufing" your measuring tape a little to approximate the pouf of the finished crown, to the back of the neck. Add a few inches to this measurement for the neck curtain and mark this measurement along the straight fold line of the crown. Subtract from the pattern lines as needed. To decrease width, measure from ear to ear across the back of the head, adding in ample ease for movement while wearing. You can "pouf" your measuring tape for this measurement too. Mark half of this measurement along the casing line and subtract from the pattern width as needed. Draw new lines to connect the lines of your new size, keeping as best you can to the original pattern shapes.

The measurement for a ruffle should be about 1.5 - 2 x the length of the curved brim line.

The ties should be long enough to neatly tie beneath the chin.

The casing should be 1.5" wide (finished width of about 3/4" when hemmed on each side) and as long as the casing line on the crown.

Materials:

You will need the following for your bonnet:

Appx. ¾ yard of cotton fabric. Calico or gingham or plaid is a good choice. Something light is nice for summer wear. Bear in mind darker colored cottons will visually fade more quickly than a light one.
Scrap of heavy cotton fabric for interfacing. Cotton canvas, duck, denim (old jeans work well), twill, etc. are all good choices.
8” of flat elastic, ½” wide
Thread

Pattern:

Please click on the following links to be taken to the files for the pattern pieces. These pieces are traced and scanned on standard computer paper so should be printed full size. In case of size discrepancy, I have the actual measurements of each piece written on the edges of the pattern pieces so double check the measurements to make sure of the size before cutting your fabric. You will have to tape the crown piece together as it did not fit on one sheet of paper.

Brim

Crown A

Crown B

Cutting:

From your fabric cut the following:
2 Brims from your fashion fabric
1 Brim from your interfacing fabric
1 Crown from your fashion fabric
You will also need to tear these pieces from left over fabric:
1 Ruffle - 3” x 45”
2 Ties - 3” x 22.5” (tear a 45” rectangle and cut in half)
1 Casing for elastic, 1.5” x 19”

Assembly:
1. Hem the crown. On the casing line, clip into the crown ½. Turn under and stitch a very narrow hem on the bottom edge of the crown and up the sides to the clip.

2. On your casing piece, turn under ¼” on each long side. Laying one long edge of the casing piece along the casing line, wrong side of casing to right side of crown, pin into place. Stitch very close the turned under edge to secure the casing to the crown.

4. Run two rows of gathering stitches along the curved edge of the crown, from just above the casing, across the top of the crown, to just above the casing on the other side.

5. Hem the ruffle. On long edge of ruffle turn under a narrow hem and stitch securely. On the other long end, run two rows of gathering stitches.

6. Lay your brim interfacing piece right side up. Lay one of the brim fashion fabric pieces on top of the interfacing piece, right side up. You will treat the two layers as one. Press securely and fold and press to find center.

7. Fold the ruffle piece lengthwise to find center. Matching center points of ruffle and brim, right sides together, pin ruffle to brim all along curved outside edge, gathering ruffle to fit brim edge. At either end of ruffle, fold the corner up to the inside of the brim. Stitch ruffle to brim with ruffle side up, stitching between the two rows of gathering. Remove gathering stitches and press ruffle towards inside of brim.

8. Lay the other brim fashion fabric piece right sides up. Lay the ruffled brim piece right side down on top of this piece. Pin brim to ruffled brim and stitch together along curved outside edge, using the seam you just sewed for attaching the ruffle as a guide. Trim seam allowance and turn brim right sides out. Press well.

9. To stiffen brim, stitch parallel rows of machine stitching across the curved outer edge of the brim. Start about ½” from the edge for your first row. How many rows you wish to stitch and how far apart you place the rows is entirely up to you. I like to space my rows about ¾” apart and like to use an odd number of rows. 5 or 7 rows look well and adequately stiffens the brim.

10. Now that your brim is complete, it is time to attach it to the crown! First, take your elastic and thread it through the casing on the crown, pinning at each end to secure. Stitch over the ends of the elastic to hold them in place and remove pins.

11. Right sides together, pin brim to crown, matching edge of brim to the raw edges of the crown. Draw up gathering stitches in crown to fit brim and distribute evenly. Stitch. Trim seam allowances. Turn bonnet right sides out and press.

12. Attach ties by sewing to seam allowance at the bottom edge of the brim.

13. To finish inside seam, cover seam with bias binding or hem lace. Stitch to cover seam allowance.

14. Enjoy your new bonnet!

19th Century Three-Piece Baby Cap

The pattern for this cap came from Mrs. G of Pastoral Symphony Farm. When she recently posted about clothing items she was making for her new baby I fell in love with this cap style and she very kindly sent me the pattern and permission to share it with you all here! To see photos of her baby caps (and other lovely baby clothing!), please click on the link to visit her blog.

This cap consists of three pieces; two sides and one center piece. Mrs. G., as well as I, fully lined the cap for ease of construction and added warmth. If desired, I suppose you could finish the inner seams with baby binding or felling for a one-layer cap but I do like the ease of fully lining it. It does not take long at all to make!

As is, this pattern should be about the right size for 0-6 months. To make it fit my currently-8-month old baby boy I added 1/2" around all edges and sewed the pieces with a 1/4" seam. This made a cap that fit well with a little room for growing.

I made mine from a white-striped white cotton.

Pattern Pieces:

Please click on the link to take you to each pattern piece. Save the files to your computer and print at 100%.

Side Piece

Center Piece

Construction:

Pin sides to center piece, right sides together, easing side pieces as necessary to fit center piece. (You should not need to run easing stitches - I simply evenly pinned mine out and it came out pucker-free). Stitch.

If lining your cap, repeat this process for the lining.

Trim seam allowances. Press seams to one side. (I pressed towards the center as it seemed the best way to do it).

Pin lining to cap, right sides together. Sew all around cap edge, leaving the portion between the back neck seams free.

Trim seam allowances and turn cap right sides out. Press neatly. Press under your seam allowance at back neck opening to the inside and slip stitch closed. If desired, top stitch bonnet around edge to stabilize it.

Attach ties at chin point on each side of cap. I used tape for mine but self fabric ties should work well, too.

If desired, embellish with embroidery, lace, etc. I whip stitched some lace around the face edge for my baby's cap. The possibilities are quite endless!

Put on baby and enjoy!

Mid-19th Century Winter Hood

The patterns given here create a warm, comfortable winter hood for both women and toddlers. The shape is appropriate for mid-19th century and a hood is a wonderful thing to have for chilly mornings at Civil War reenactments, or for use in historic settings (or modern, if you dare!) in the colder months of the year.

For practicality, make your hood out of wool for the outer layer. For the lining, choose anything that is slippery - silk, polished cotton, etc. For my boys I used plain cotton to line the hoods with so I could easily clean them. At their age they tend to get everything they wear quite filthy! For the ladies hood I used silk for the lining.

You might also wish to add (and I strongly recommend) an inner layer of insulating fabric (read: wool) or wool batting. This can be quilted just to the lining or may be quilted to both the lining and outer layer like a sandwich.

You will need the following pattern pieces:

Women:
Brim A

Brim B (tape to A)

Crown

Curtain A

Curtain B (tape to A)

Toddler:

Brim

Crown

Curtain

You will also need to reserve some fabric to make ties, if desired. You could also use ribbon for ties if you would rather.

From your fabric cut the following:

Brim - 1 in Fashion Fabric, 1 in Lining, and 1 in Insulating Layer (if you are using wool batting for this layer, also cut an additional lining piece so you can sandwich the wool between the two while quilting. This makes it far easier to quilt and also reduces shedding wool which can creep up between the fibers of your outer layer).

Crown - 1 in Fashion Fabric, 1 in Lining, and 1 in Insulating Layer. If using wool batt, see information as for brim.

Curtain - 1 in Fasion Fabric, 1 in Lining and 1 in Insulating Layer. (if fashion fabric is quite heavy/bulky I usually do not put batting in the curtain. Wool flannel is a good choice to use for the insulating layer here).

Construction:

Brim

For Brim Quilted Through All Layers ~ stack your lining piece, inner piece and fashion fabric piece on top of each other. Make sure the right side of your lining is facing DOWN and the right side of your fashion fabric is facing UP. Baste together. Quilt as desired.

For Brim Quilted Through Bottom Layer Only ~ stack your lining piece, inner piece and additional lining piece on top of each other. Make sure the right side of your bottom lining is facing DOWN. Quilt as desired.

To finish brim, cut strips of binding fabric on the bias to the length needed to go around the face edge of brim and the short, curved edges. Bind.

Crown:

Stack your lining, inner layer and fashion fabric on top of each other. Quilt as for brim above.

Pin crown into brim, matching edges. The crown should ease into the brim with no pleats or easing stitches necessary. If you find you do need pleats or easing stitches, put those in so the crown and brim fit neatly. Stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance. Finish seam with binding.

Curtain:

Lay your fashion fabric and lining right sides together. Stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance along short edges and long, circular curved edge. Trim seam and turn right sides out. Press well.

Pleat the straight edge of your crown to fit the back of your neck comfortably. Pleat the raw edge of the curtain to the same measurement. Pin curtain to crown and stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance. Bind this seam as well.

To finish:

Add ties and decorations as desired!

Enjoy!