The patterns given here create a warm, comfortable winter hood for both women and toddlers. The shape is appropriate for mid-19th century and a hood is a wonderful thing to have for chilly mornings at Civil War reenactments, or for use in historic settings (or modern, if you dare!) in the colder months of the year.
For practicality, make your hood out of wool for the outer layer. For the lining, choose anything that is slippery - silk, polished cotton, etc. For my boys I used plain cotton to line the hoods with so I could easily clean them. At their age they tend to get everything they wear quite filthy! For the ladies hood I used silk for the lining.
You might also wish to add (and I strongly recommend) an inner layer of insulating fabric (read: wool) or wool batting. This can be quilted just to the lining or may be quilted to both the lining and outer layer like a sandwich.
You will need the following pattern pieces:
Women:
Brim A
Brim B (tape to A)
Curtain B (tape to A)
Toddler:
You will also need to reserve some fabric to make ties, if desired. You could also use ribbon for ties if you would rather.
From your fabric cut the following:
Brim - 1 in Fashion Fabric, 1 in Lining, and 1 in Insulating Layer (if you are using wool batting for this layer, also cut an additional lining piece so you can sandwich the wool between the two while quilting. This makes it far easier to quilt and also reduces shedding wool which can creep up between the fibers of your outer layer).
Crown - 1 in Fashion Fabric, 1 in Lining, and 1 in Insulating Layer. If using wool batt, see information as for brim.
Curtain - 1 in Fasion Fabric, 1 in Lining and 1 in Insulating Layer. (if fashion fabric is quite heavy/bulky I usually do not put batting in the curtain. Wool flannel is a good choice to use for the insulating layer here).
Construction:
Brim
For Brim Quilted Through All Layers ~ stack your lining piece, inner piece and fashion fabric piece on top of each other. Make sure the right side of your lining is facing DOWN and the right side of your fashion fabric is facing UP. Baste together. Quilt as desired.
For Brim Quilted Through Bottom Layer Only ~ stack your lining piece, inner piece and additional lining piece on top of each other. Make sure the right side of your bottom lining is facing DOWN. Quilt as desired.
To finish brim, cut strips of binding fabric on the bias to the length needed to go around the face edge of brim and the short, curved edges. Bind.
Crown:
Stack your lining, inner layer and fashion fabric on top of each other. Quilt as for brim above.
Pin crown into brim, matching edges. The crown should ease into the brim with no pleats or easing stitches necessary. If you find you do need pleats or easing stitches, put those in so the crown and brim fit neatly. Stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance. Finish seam with binding.
Curtain:
Lay your fashion fabric and lining right sides together. Stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance along short edges and long, circular curved edge. Trim seam and turn right sides out. Press well.
Pleat the straight edge of your crown to fit the back of your neck comfortably. Pleat the raw edge of the curtain to the same measurement. Pin curtain to crown and stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance. Bind this seam as well.
To finish:
Add ties and decorations as desired!
Enjoy!
10 comments:
I'm a little confused, where are the pattern pieces? I would love to make a winter hood, but have no idea where to start. Everything you make is absolutely beautiful!
If you click on the links that say, for women "Brim A" "Brim B" etc, that will take you to the pattern file which I uploaded to my photobucket account. Hope this helps!
Thank you, I am anxious to give the pattern a try.
all your creations are very nice !
I love these periods !
thank you for your helpful patterns !
and also I'm happy to hear from God and Christ in daily life and in a blog like yours ! it's great !!!
God bless you...
Sarah,
I love this hood of yours and I want to try it. Would you please answer some questions?
What is the fabric yardages.....silk/wool and wool batting used?
Are the pattern pieces to size? Did you make a muslin first to check for size?
Anything you would do different if you made this again?
Thanks,
Cindy Van Sluys
St. Louis, MO
Cindy, thank you! As frr yardage, I am not completely sure of exact amounts since I have always used scraps I had on hand, instead of buying new yardage on purpose for making the hood. I would say that a yard each of silk, wool and batting would be plenty.
I do not know if the pattern pieces print out to size. For me, they do. Others have mentioned that it has made up rather small. Making a muslin really is best, if you have time for that. The size that fits me well may not be as nice on someone else, though I do think I have a pretty standard size head.
I'd personally just use sthe pattern pieces as a guide for shape,s ubstituting your own measurements to get the size. It's a simple little hood once the sizingi s figured out!
Hope this helps!
God bless!
Cindy, thank you! As frr yardage, I am not completely sure of exact amounts since I have always used scraps I had on hand, instead of buying new yardage on purpose for making the hood. I would say that a yard each of silk, wool and batting would be plenty.
I do not know if the pattern pieces print out to size. For me, they do. Others have mentioned that it has made up rather small. Making a muslin really is best, if you have time for that. The size that fits me well may not be as nice on someone else, though I do think I have a pretty standard size head.
I'd personally just use sthe pattern pieces as a guide for shape,s ubstituting your own measurements to get the size. It's a simple little hood once the sizingi s figured out!
Hope this helps!
God bless!
Thank you SO much for making this available. We all are sewing madly here to get warm clothing made for our winter events since everyone has seemed to have recent growth spurts!
My question is, we do 1855 - do you happen to know if this style of hood would have been worn by a 6 year old boy in that time? I've been searching about, but paging through Godey's online is slow slogging and I thought I'd see if you knew off the top of your head.
Kimberly, I am so sorry I am just now seeing your question and replying! Anyway, I think if your 6 year old is still in gowns that a hood like this would be fine. If he is wearing more manly styles, though, I'd probably go with a warm wheel cap/mechanics cap in wool, possibly with ear-flaps that can be tied under the chin.
Hello! A friend and I were attempting to use your pattern, but when we go to download the pieces from photobucket, they show up as empty? I'm not sure if there are privacy settings so that if anyone downloads the items, they don't necessarily work? Or if we are both just struggling on our end. Is there anything you can suggest so we can access and print the files? Please let me know. Thanks!
Ashley
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